CARDON Dominique

The UMR 5648, History and Archaeology of the Medieval Christian and Muslim Worlds, is one of the rare research centers that brings together specialists working on the entire Mediterranean basin, interested in the Christian West, the Byzantine domain, and the Muslim world (Eastern and Western), as well as textual historians and archaeologists. The combination of these skills has made it possible to offer a very diverse selection of documents, in relation to the subject on the syllabus for the agrégation and CAPES in history for the academic years 2000-2001 and 2001-2002 (The relations of the Islamic countries with the Latin world: middle of the tenth and middle of the thirteenth century). Some of these texts are translated for the first time from Arabic, Latin, or the Romance languages derived from them in the Middle Ages. Beyond the circumstances that prompted the gathering of these documents, we will have a glimpse of the diversity and richness of research possibilities in these areas of confrontation and contact. 78 documents gathered and presented by the UMR 5648, History and Archaeology of Medieval Christian and Muslim Worlds.

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The current consumer trend for healthier and more environmentally friendly consumer products is pushing manufacturers to find natural alternatives. The synthetic dye industry, which is among the most polluting on the planet, is directly concerned. Madagascar's biodiversity, linked to a tradition of using plants to dye natural fibers, represents a renewable source of plant pigments, previously untapped. The substances extracted from these plants could give rise to natural dyes that can be used in industry, provided that the main scientific obstacles linked to the lack of knowledge about these plants are removed. Three complementary approaches were carried out during this work. A first ethnobotanical approach consisted in screening the biodiversity of dye plants in Madagascar. Thus 128 species, including 34 endemic, were identified and described. A second phytochemical approach allowed to develop the extraction of dyes by an eco-responsible process with ecological solvents and to characterize the physicochemical and technological properties of the extracts obtained. The results in terms of coloring power, stability (pH and temperature effect) and antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of the pigments (anthocyanins, proanthocyanidins) extracted from a few selected plant species, including Acridocarpus excelsus and Woodfordia fruticosa, underline their potential as natural bioactive colorants. The HPLC-DAD-CAD-MS chromatographic analysis of pigments extracted from Paracarphalea kirondron revealed for the first time secondary metabolites responsible for dyeing and biological properties. Finally, the third toxicological approach, carried out from the zebrafish model and the albino mice animal model, allowed to characterize the biological activity and toxicity profiles of these plant extracts. These initial results open up directly applicable prospects for the industrial valorization of these biological resources and Malagasy know-how, which may represent the natural alternative solutions sought. However, accompanying measures will have to be put in place to ensure a sustainable exploitation of this biodiversity.

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The results of dye analyses that identified true purple, extracted from marine mollusks, in ten archaeological textiles from the first three centuries AD discovered in the Didymoi dump site in the Eastern Desert of Egypt are presented here. These results are discussed from the triple point of view of the biological sources of these dyes, the places of production and the technical processes used. The results of calculations of the quantities of purple dye needed to decorate the garments of which the analyzed fragments were originally part are then presented. They have made it possible to evaluate the additional cost of using real purple in the basic elements of men's and women's clothing of the period. By comparing this cost with other prices for goods or services, one can form a more precise idea of the possibilities of the diffusion of this prestigious dye in the different strata of Egyptian society in the first three centuries of our era.

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My thesis aims to study all aspects of textile production in Sudan during the Meroitic period (300 BC - 400 AD). As an artisanal production, textiles are the fruit of numerous manufacturing steps, from the cultivation of the fiber to its transformation into threads, and to the weaving. Textiles are also one of the pillars of the material culture of ancient societies. They fulfilled a wide variety of functions, linked to clothing or furniture, in all contexts, whether urban, cultural or funerary. Other questions will have to be addressed, such as that of trade with the Roman world, or that of the place of Sudanese textile production in the wider spaces of the Nile Valley or the Mediterranean world. My thesis will aim to document all of these themes, touching on different fields such as archaeobotany, textile studies, iconographic analysis, archaeology and history.my work will consist of collecting and analyzing tools, fabrics and reliefs showing costumes, each documentary group shedding light on one or more aspects of textile production. It will also involve observing archaeological contexts in order to determine the different modalities of production and use of fabrics. Such a study, based on a rich corpus of often unpublished objects, will make it possible to illustrate a little-known area of the material and economic culture of Meroitic Sudan.

"If all colors have their stories, the story of pastel blue is one of the most remarkable. This plant pigment known since antiquity had its moment of glory in Languedoc during the Renaissance and then fell into oblivion. This blue gold has been reborn thanks to the passion of Denise Lambert, today's master pastelist. This film, whose soul is blue and Denise Lambert the muse, approaches this color as a ship would reach a shore to reveal it as a climax before our eyes." (Source: cover).

identification of Nasca textile dyes.

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This thesis proposes to study in depth the dyeing materials and the techniques of dyeing applied to the textiles of the Nasca culture. This pre-Hispanic civilization, without writing, developed on the southern coast of Peru for about nine centuries (200 BC to 700 AD). Among its material culture, textiles are abundant and many of them are of great finesse with polychrome decorations. The polychromy probably had a meaning in the Nasca cosmogony and the textile is particularly loaded with meaning in the Andean culture. However, the materials of the color remain a subject still unknown in the textile field. It seemed therefore interesting to identify by means of physical-chemical methods the coloring materials used by Nasca textile artists. To do this, a field survey was conducted upstream to collect and identify the coloring sources likely to have been used. Then a textile corpus was constituted with unpublished textiles, resulting from recent excavations carried out on the sites of Los Molinos, Estaqueria and Cahuachi, the ancient political-ceremonial center of Nasca. Some fabrics from other cultures (Topará, Mochica and Nasca drivé) have also been analyzed to establish comparisons. The results provide valuable information that characterizes the dyeing and painting production of Nasca textiles. Beyond this technical aspect, these data are useful to approach from another angle more complex archaeological problems, especially when the cultural attribution of textiles is unknown or discussed, such as those of the Paracas peninsula.

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The technical regulations of the northwestern Mediterranean (statutes of the woolen trades, drapery ordinances) permit a technological study of the successive stages of production, appretation, and dyeing of woollen fabrics in Languedoc, Roussillon, Catalonia, the kingdom of Valencia, and Majorca in the 13th-15th centuries. The conversation in metric measurements and the interpretation of the numerical data provide, for the first time, bases for comparison with the information derived from the analysis of samples of medieval woollen fabrics found in Languedoc and in the Datini archives in Prato. The amount of original information provided by the sources used and the overall vision offered by this work lead to questions that are valid for all medieval draperies, in particular that of the true quality criteria of the fabrics in the various drapery centers.